Chipmunk — care sheet

Advanced. Tricky to care for and, crucially, illegal to buy or sell in the EU/UK (an invasive-species listing) — only pre-existing owners may keep one. Chipmunks mostly dislike handling, stress easily, and need an aviary-sized enclosure; experts are still learning best-practice husbandry.

A full, varied diet: cereals (oats, wheat, barley, corn, millet) making up around half; unsalted seeds and nuts (e.g. pine nuts); small amounts of washed, chopped fresh fruit and vegetables (apple, pear, banana, carrot, sweet potato); and untreated seeding grasses/weeds (chickweed, shepherd’s purse). Remove stones from peaches/plums (poisonous). A seed-based rodent mix isn’t suitable, though rat/mouse pellets can be given. Chipmunks hoard food (essential to their wellbeing) — check the store daily and remove perishables, and never change the diet suddenly. Fresh water from a stainless-steel-spout bottle, checked twice daily.

A large, secure enclosure ideally the size of a large aviary — tall enough for you to walk into without crouching. The floor must be solid (never wire mesh, which damages feet) and covered with substrate deep enough to dig in. Fill it with vertical climbing space (branches and ropes of untreated, non-toxic wood), foraging opportunities, and nest boxes/hiding places (hollow logs, pipes). They chew and dig, so check regularly for damage and escape routes.

Species-dependent and best managed carefully. Siberian chipmunks may be kept in a compatible pair or group — a neutered male–female pair, one male with up to three females, or all-female groups can work — but adult males will usually fight, and any chipmunk may be aggressive to others. Give each animal its own nest box or hiding place plus a spare. (Some other chipmunk species must always live alone.)

Chipmunks don’t truly hibernate but can enter a hibernation-like “torpor” over winter; warm household temperatures and light usually prevent it. If one does “hibernate,” leave it be (unless you suspect illness) but keep food, water and nesting available, as it wakes to feed. Keep indoor chipmunks away from direct sun, radiators and heat sources; protect outdoor ones from draughts and give extra nesting in cold weather.

A solid floor covered with dust-free, non-toxic wood shavings or shredded paper, deep enough to dig; nest boxes filled with shredded paper or dust-free hay. Never use wire-mesh flooring.

Plenty of climbing (branches and ropes), space to forage, and hiding places — with enough toys and resources for every animal so they don’t compete. They’re highly prone to stress and boredom, which can cause repetitive behaviour, and are sensitive to ultrasound, so keep them away from TVs, screens, vacuum cleaners and running water.

Their teeth grow continuously — provide gnawing material such as a clean cuttlefish bone (which also supplies calcium), and check the teeth weekly for overgrowth or misalignment (only a vet should correct these). Wetness around the mouth can signal overgrown teeth.

A clean cuttlefish bone for calcium and to wear the teeth down. No other routine supplement is recommended; only ever give vet-prescribed medicines (human or other-animal medicines can be dangerous).

Total length about 18–25 cm (7–10 in), roughly a third of which is the tail; body mass about 50–150 g, varying with the season.

Usually four to five years in captivity, sometimes up to ten.

See a small-animal or exotics vet if you notice: Discharge around the nose, or difficulty breathing — possible respiratory infection; Wetness around the mouth — possible overgrown teeth (only a vet should correct these); Reduced appetite, lethargy, a dull coat, or weight loss; Sudden behaviour changes, or changes in droppings (fewer/smaller, or stopping); Signs of aspergillosis, ringworm or parasites.