Degu — care sheet

Intermediate. Sociable, curious and, unusually, active by day — but with one make-or-break rule: no sugar, ever. Degus are highly prone to diabetes and can’t process sugar or many carbohydrates, so their diet is stricter than almost any other small pet’s. Add that they’re a colony animal, need to be kept cool, and can live 6–8 years, and they’re a real commitment.

The critical rule is no sugar. Degus are highly prone to type 2 diabetes and can’t handle sugar or rich carbohydrates. Give unlimited good-quality hay as the majority of the diet — it matters more than anything else and wears down their ever-growing teeth — plus about 1–2 tablespoons (≈10 g) of degu nuggets a day. If you can’t get degu-specific nuggets, guinea-pig or chinchilla nuggets are acceptable only if they contain no molasses (and no dried fruit); rabbit, hamster and gerbil foods are not suitable. Skip fruit entirely (too sugary), and give only tiny occasional pieces of higher-sugar vegetables like carrot, sweet potato, beetroot or parsnip. Provide fresh water at all times.

A large, tall, multi-level cage — the bigger the better — with plenty of room to run, jump, climb, chew, dig and dust-bathe. It must be metal: degus chew straight through plastic and wood. Multi-level ferret or chinchilla cages can work, as long as the bar gaps are narrow enough that a degu can’t squeeze through or get its head stuck. Give a solid base with a deep layer of bedding to dig, plus hay-filled nest boxes to sleep in.

Degus are social colony animals and should never be kept alone — keep them with at least one other degu. They live in small groups in the wild and rely on that company for their wellbeing.

Keep them cool: the enclosure should be no warmer than about 20°C. Put it in a cool part of the house, away from radiators and other heat sources. A degu lying still and flat on its stomach may be overheating — treat that as urgent and speak to a vet.

A solid cage base with a deep layer of bedding — hay, shredded paper, paper tissue, or non-toxic wood shavings — so they can dig and burrow, plus hay-stuffed nest boxes. Avoid dusty bedding, which (with poor ventilation) can cause respiratory problems.

Degus are energetic and need outlets: a large, solid exercise wheel and tunnels, plenty of safe things to climb and chew, room to dig — and a dust bath. Offer a shallow, heavy bowl of chinchilla sand about 4 cm deep for them to roll in, but only two or three times a week for around 20 minutes each time (constant access isn’t good for them).

Degus keep their coats in condition with dust baths (chinchilla sand, a few times a week) rather than water. Their incisors and cheek teeth grow continuously and are worn down by hay — healthy degu front teeth are orange, so check weekly that the teeth are the right colour, length and shape. Never pick up or restrain a degu by its tail: it can shed part of the tail as a defence, which is painful and usually needs veterinary treatment.

None needed — and the priority is the opposite of supplementing: keeping sugar out. Avoid sugary commercial treats, which are a common hidden cause of diabetes in degus.

A sturdy brown rodent, a bit larger than a big gerbil, with a long tail ending in a tuft — built low and quick, and famous for the healthy orange colour of its front teeth.

On average 6–8 years, and some reach nine — long-lived for a small rodent, so a real multi-year commitment.

See a small-animal or exotics vet if you notice: Cloudy eyes (cataracts), excessive drinking or urinating, or unexplained weight gain — signs of diabetes; see a vet; Drooling, a swollen face, discharge from one or both eyes, or a change in tooth colour — dental disease (healthy degu teeth are orange); Lying flat and still in warm conditions — possible overheating; treat as urgent; Not eating or passing no droppings — a stalled gut is an emergency; A dropped, degloved or injured tail — see a vet promptly, as it often needs treatment to prevent infection; Diarrhoea or soft droppings.