Guinea Pig — care sheet

Beginner. A gentle, chatty and genuinely beginner-friendly herd animal — but with two non-negotiables that catch people out: they need daily vitamin C in their diet (they can’t make their own), and they must live with at least one other guinea pig. Get those right, plus plenty of floor space and a hay-first diet, and they’re one of the most rewarding first pets there is.

Good-quality hay and/or grass makes up the majority of the diet and must be available at all times — it keeps the gut moving and wears down their continuously-growing teeth. Add a fresh daily portion of grass-based guinea-pig pellets and a daily variety of vitamin-C-rich fresh vegetables and herbs. Vitamin C is the make-or-break nutrient: guinea pigs can’t make or store their own, so it must come from the diet every day — and because vitamin C degrades in air, give a fresh portion of pellets and greens each day rather than topping up the bowl. Provide constant fresh water (check twice daily). Don’t overfeed pellets: too many (and too little hay) cause diarrhoea, bloating and gut disease.

As much floor space as you can give, on a solid floor (never a grid or wire floor — it hurts their feet) with a good depth of litter. Guinea pigs run rather than climb, so floor area matters far more than height, though they need room to stand fully upright and youngsters need about 30 cm of headroom for their happy “popcorn” hops. Include a large exercise area plus secure shelters and hides — they feel exposed in open space — with as many hiding places as pigs, plus one.

Guinea pigs are herd animals and must never be kept alone — in some countries it is even illegal to keep a solitary one. Good groupings include a neutered male with one or more females, two females, or brothers raised together (unrelated males can work but take patience). Any male kept with females must be neutered. Give every pig its own escape/hiding spots and enough food, water and shelter for all, so lower-ranking pigs aren’t bullied. If one must temporarily live alone, it needs daily human company as a stopgap.

Room temperatures of 17–20°C are ideal. Guinea pigs cope badly with temperature swings: above 26°C they risk heatstroke, and below 15°C they get chilled and should be moved indoors. Keep them out of direct sun, away from radiators, and free of draughts.

A solid floor with a generous, deep layer of dry, dust-free, absorbent wood shavings topped with plenty of hay to tunnel and hide in; wood wool also makes good hiding material. Never use a grid floor. Provide enough bedding throughout to keep them warm, and spot-clean often — guinea pigs like their toilet area kept separate.

They’re active grazers that need room and reasons to move: give free access to an exercise area with pipes, tunnels and shelters to run, stand up, stretch out and forage. Provide safe things to gnaw — their teeth and claws grow continuously and wear down through use — and scatter or hide food to encourage natural foraging. Hides and quiet refuges keep a nervous pig calm.

Guinea pigs rarely need bathing unless genuinely soiled (use a small-animal shampoo, never human shampoo, and dry thoroughly). Long-haired breeds need regular brushing to prevent painful matting. Check teeth and claws for overgrowth — a vet can trim them, but plenty of hay and gnaw items prevents most problems before they start.

The critical one is vitamin C, and it should come from the daily diet (fresh grass-based pellets plus vitamin-C-rich vegetables). Don’t rely on vitamin drops in the water bottle — vitamin C breaks down quickly in water and can put pigs off drinking. If you’re unsure your pig is getting enough, ask a vet about a proper supplement rather than guessing.

Adults weigh roughly 815–1,000 g (about 1.8–2.2 lb) and measure around 20–50 cm (8–19 in) nose-to-rump depending on breed — a solid, tail-less body built low to the ground.

Typically 5–8 years — much longer than most rodents, so this is a real multi-year commitment, not a short one.

See a small-animal or exotics vet if you notice: Not eating, drooling (“slobbers”), or dropping weight — often dental disease, and a guinea pig that stops eating needs a vet quickly; Any difficulty breathing, sneezing, or nasal/eye discharge — respiratory infection and pneumonia are a leading cause of death and can progress fast; see a vet immediately; Diarrhoea, small or no droppings, bloating, a hunched posture, rough fur or staining around the rear — gut upset, which can decline rapidly; Watering, crusting or redness of the eyes (conjunctivitis); Head tilt, circling, loss of balance or ear discharge (ear infection); Hair loss with low appetite and energy in a female over one year (possible ovarian cysts); Any new lump, especially in a guinea pig over 5 years old.