Species · Omnivore rodent

Richardson's Ground Squirrel

Urocitellus richardsonii

A pocket-sized prairie squirrel that greets spring, fattens all summer, then vanishes into a months-long sleep near freezing, exactly as it would in a wild burrow.

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Illustration of a Richardson's Ground Squirrel

Richardson's ground squirrels are little prairie diggers from the northern US Great Plains and the Canadian prairies, where they live in busy, mostly-female colonies and spend a huge share of their lives asleep underground. In the last few years a small number have turned up in the exotic-pet world, and with patient, gentle socialising they can bond genuinely with the person who raised them. But they are not tame the way a domesticated rodent is, they burrow, they chew, they get chunky if you let them, and every year they will try to hibernate. If you can meet an animal on its own wild terms rather than yours, they are fascinating. If you want a cuddly lap pet that's the same all year round, this isn't it.

Beginner-friendly, done right. These are truly exotic, semi-wild rodents, not a domesticated pet like a hamster or gerbil. They burrow and chew destructively, need an experienced hand to tame, are prone to obesity, and above all they hibernate for months every year, which most keepers are unprepared for. They also don't breed readily in captivity, so sourcing an ethical captive-bred animal is genuinely hard. This is a keeper-choice for someone ready to work around a wild animal's seasonal rhythms, an exotic vet on call, and the law in their state.

Care at a glance

Adult sizeAdults are roughly 28 to 31 cm (about 11 to 12 inches) long including the tail. Weight swings dramatically with the season: at spring emergence females are around 200 to 275 g and males 350 to 450 g, but through summer they deliberately fatten up and can reach nearly 750 g before hibernation. That seasonal weight gain is normal and expected, though in captivity it tips easily into unhealthy obesity if food is unlimited.
LifespanIn the wild most don't last long, males average around 3 years and females around 4 (a few females past 6). In captivity, spared from predators, sources report noticeably longer lives, commonly cited around 6 years and sometimes 5 to 7. Plan for a genuine multi-year commitment through repeated hibernation cycles.
EnclosureThey need a large, secure enclosure that lets them do what they're built to do, dig and chew. A deep substrate for burrowing and plenty of solid, gnaw-proof structure are essential, and the enclosure must be genuinely escape-proof because they are strong, determined chewers and diggers. Supervised free-range time in a squirrel-proofed room can supplement the cage but never replaces a large permanent home. Assume they will destroy soft furnishings and anything chewable within reach.
CompanionshipIn the wild they live communally in colonies, and the social structure is strongly female-biased, females tolerate other related females but males are far less social and males don't cohabit peacefully as adults. If you keep more than one, related females are the workable combination; mixing unrelated adults or intact males invites fighting. Many keepers keep them singly with lots of human interaction. Do your research on the specific animals before pairing, and be ready to separate.
TemperatureFor most of the year keep them at comfortable room temperature, avoiding extreme heat. The critical point is hibernation: this species naturally cools its body from the usual ~37°C down toward soil temperature, dropping to near 0°C in the depth of winter, with brief spontaneous rewarming episodes every couple of weeks. Experienced keepers provide a cool, safe, dark setting for this dormant period rather than forcing the animal to stay warm and awake. Because getting the hibernation environment right is difficult and risky, this is a subject to work through with an exotic vet before your first winter, never improvise it.
Bedding & substrateProvide a deep, dig-friendly substrate so they can burrow, tunnelling is a core natural behaviour, not an optional enrichment. Use safe, dust-free bedding materials appropriate for rodents and avoid anything toxic, scented, or prone to causing respiratory irritation. Depth matters more than surface area for satisfying the urge to dig.
Enrichment & exerciseDigging opportunities, safe chew items, and things to forage for are the backbone of enrichment, chewing and burrowing are needs, not extras. Scatter-feeding and hiding food encourages natural foraging and helps manage weight. Supervised, squirrel-proofed out-of-cage exploration adds valuable stimulation for a bonded animal. A bored, under-enriched ground squirrel will chew and dig at everything, so give it legitimate outlets.
Grooming & upkeepThey groom themselves and don't need bathing. The keeper's real job is monitoring: watch body weight closely (obesity is a common captive problem), keep an eye on the continuously-growing incisors and provide plenty to gnaw so teeth wear naturally, and check for overgrown nails. Any change in weight, appetite, or teeth is worth an exotic-vet conversation.
DietIn the wild the diet is roughly 90% plant matter, grasses, seeds, grains, greens, legumes and flowers, and about 10% animal matter such as insects. A captive diet should mirror this: a good-quality ground-squirrel/rodent base, fresh greens and vegetables, seeds and grains in moderation, and occasional insects as the protein component. Because obesity is a real risk, portion controlled and monitor weight rather than free-feeding rich seeds. Always provide fresh water during the active season.
SupplementsThere's no well-established, widely-cited supplement protocol for this species in the pet literature, so the safest approach is a varied, species-appropriate diet that supplies nutrients naturally rather than guessing at supplements. If you suspect a deficiency, obesity issue, or breeding/pregnancy needs, ask an exotic vet rather than dosing on your own. Never assume a supplement is needed, get it confirmed.
The good news: When it's legal where you live, sourced captive-bred, and given a big dig-and-chew home plus patient socialising, a Richardson's ground squirrel can become a genuinely bonded, endlessly entertaining companion that lets you watch a wild prairie rhythm, spring emergence, summer fattening, winter sleep, unfold right in your home.

🤎 Did you know? — Richardson's Ground Squirrel fun facts

Little true delights about the richardson's ground squirrel — each one checked against a named source, no pet-shop myths.

  • Richardson's ground squirrels spend up to two-thirds of the year hibernating — roughly 240 to 250 days underground. Nature Alberta
  • In deep hibernation their body temperature falls from about 37°C to near freezing, with brief warm-ups of about 12 hours every 2 to 3 weeks. Nature Alberta
  • They can survive more than 210 days without food or water, living entirely off the fat they built up over summer. Nature Alberta

More small-pet fun facts →

What it's like to live with a Richardson's Ground Squirrel

This is a semi-wild animal, so expectations matter. A hand-raised, patiently-socialised squirrel can become genuinely bonded and interactive, but it will still bite if frightened or handled roughly, and it keeps its wild instincts to dig, chew, and hoard. They are active, curious, and vocal (the 'picket pin' upright watch-posture and alarm calls are classic). They are not ideal for young children or households wanting a calm, predictable pet, and they demand daily interaction to stay tame. Respect the animal's rhythms, especially the annual withdrawal into hibernation, and the relationship works far better.

Your first month together

The settling-in period, in order — so you know what's normal and when not to worry.

  1. Before anything else, confirm it's legal to own one where you live and that your animal is captive-bred with proper paperwork, then line up an exotic vet who will actually see rodents/squirrels.
  2. Set up the large, escape-proof, deep-substrate enclosure and let the squirrel settle with minimal handling for the first several days, quiet, food, water, and time to feel safe.
  3. Begin taming slowly with hand-feeding and calm, short sessions; let the squirrel come to you rather than grabbing, and expect trust to build over weeks, not days.
  4. Establish a portion-controlled, varied diet from day one and start weighing regularly so you learn this individual's healthy baseline and catch obesity early.
  5. Learn the hibernation timeline now, not in November, so you understand what a normal winter slowdown looks like and have a vet-agreed plan before it starts.

Through the year, and as they grow

Hibernation is the defining feature of the year. In the wild adults enter dormancy remarkably early, adult males often by late June/July, females a few weeks later, and juveniles last, then emerge the following spring (males around late February, females into March). Total dormancy is long: roughly 240 to 250 days for adults, and they can survive over 210 days without food or water by living off summer fat while body temperature falls toward 0°C, punctuated by brief spontaneous rewarming to ~37°C for about 12 hours every 2 to 3 weeks. In practice this means a normal, healthy animal will fatten heavily in late summer, become sluggish, and then go dormant, this is expected, not illness. Support it by allowing seasonal fattening, then providing a cool, dark, safe setting for dormancy, and coordinate the specifics with an exotic vet because captive hibernation carries real risk if done wrong.

The pet store gets these wrong

Common myths, kindly corrected — no shame for having believed them.

  • Myth: it's sick or dying because it won't wake up in winter. Kind correction: hibernation is normal and profound in this species, healthy squirrels spend two-thirds of the year dormant with body temperature near freezing.
  • Myth: a hamster cage will do. Kind correction: these are strong diggers and destructive chewers that need a large, deep-substrate, genuinely escape-proof enclosure.
  • Myth: they're basically a fancy hamster or gerbil. Kind correction: they're an exotic, semi-wild, colonial squirrel with a hibernation cycle, very different care and temperament.
  • Myth: any squirrel is legal since they're common pests. Kind correction: legality is a state-by-state patchwork ranging from unrestricted to banned, and pest status can add its own sale/transport restrictions.
  • Myth: just keep it warm all winter so it stays awake and cute. Kind correction: forcing an obligate hibernator to skip dormancy is not benign, work the seasonal cycle with a vet instead of overriding it.

Before you buy

  • Check the law FIRST: US ownership of pet squirrels ranges from unrestricted, to permit-only (often requiring a USDA-licensed captive-bred source), to outright banned, and it varies by state and even municipality, verify with your state wildlife agency before you commit.
  • Insist on captive-bred and avoid wild-caught: this species breeds poorly in captivity, so wild-caught animals circulate, wild-caught means welfare, stress, disease, and often legal problems, so buy from an ethical breeder.
  • Understand hibernation before you buy, not after: your animal will attempt a months-long, near-freezing dormancy every year, and you need a vet-backed plan for it.
  • Line up an exotic/small-mammal vet in advance, ordinary cat-and-dog clinics often won't treat them, and you don't want to be searching in an emergency.
  • Budget for a large, escape-proof, deep-substrate enclosure and accept ongoing destruction, they dig and chew relentlessly.
  • Be honest about temperament and time, they're semi-wild, can bite, need daily interaction to stay tame, and aren't suited to young kids or hands-off owners.
  • Commit for years, captive lifespans around 5 to 7 years mean repeated hibernation cycles and long-term care.

Working out the budget? See how much a richardson's ground squirrel really costs to keep — the honest upfront-vs-ongoing breakdown (the richardson's ground squirrel itself is usually the cheapest part).

See a vet if…

We can't diagnose from afar — but these are the signs to stop watching and get a professional:

  • Failure to fatten in late summer, or unexplained weight loss, before the hibernation season.
  • Not entering hibernation when expected, or a hibernation pattern that looks wrong, get vet guidance rather than guessing.
  • Trouble arousing normally, prolonged lethargy, or weakness outside the normal dormant period.
  • Overgrown or misaligned incisors, drooling, or difficulty eating (dental disease).
  • Obesity or a sudden change in appetite or thirst.
  • Diarrhoea, blood in stool or urine, or signs of dehydration.
  • Wounds, abscesses, or signs of respiratory illness (laboured breathing, discharge), especially in newly acquired or wild-caught animals.

Heading to the vet? Print the free Richardson's Ground Squirrel vet-prep sheet — how to find an exotic-mammal vet, what to bring, and what to tell them.

Never

  • Never buy or keep one where it's illegal, or knowingly take a wild-caught animal, check the law and demand captive-bred provenance.
  • Never force an obligate hibernator to stay warm and awake all winter to suit yourself, work with its seasonal cycle and a vet.
  • Never house it in a small, shallow, or chewable cage, it will escape, get injured, or be unable to perform essential digging.
  • Never free-feed rich seeds or nuts without portion control, obesity is a genuine and common health problem.
  • Never grab, corner, or roughly handle a frightened squirrel, they can and will bite; build trust patiently instead.
  • Never assume a normal, healthy winter dormancy is a medical emergency, or that a genuinely abnormal one is 'just hibernation', know the difference and involve a vet.

Common richardson's ground squirrel questions

How hard are Richardson's Ground Squirrels to keep — are they good for beginners?

Advanced. These are truly exotic, semi-wild rodents, not a domesticated pet like a hamster or gerbil. They burrow and chew destructively, need an experienced hand to tame, are prone to obesity, and above all they hibernate for months every year, which most keepers are unprepared for. They also don't breed readily in captivity, so sourcing an ethical captive-bred animal is genuinely hard. This is a keeper-choice for someone ready to work around a wild animal's seasonal rhythms, an exotic vet on call, and the law in their state.

What do Richardson's Ground Squirrels eat?

In the wild the diet is roughly 90% plant matter, grasses, seeds, grains, greens, legumes and flowers, and about 10% animal matter such as insects. A captive diet should mirror this: a good-quality ground-squirrel/rodent base, fresh greens and vegetables, seeds and grains in moderation, and occasional insects as the protein component. Because obesity is a real risk, portion controlled and monitor weight rather than free-feeding rich seeds. Always provide fresh water during the active season.

How big an enclosure do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

They need a large, secure enclosure that lets them do what they're built to do, dig and chew. A deep substrate for burrowing and plenty of solid, gnaw-proof structure are essential, and the enclosure must be genuinely escape-proof because they are strong, determined chewers and diggers. Supervised free-range time in a squirrel-proofed room can supplement the cage but never replaces a large permanent home. Assume they will destroy soft furnishings and anything chewable within reach.

Do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need a companion, or can they live alone?

In the wild they live communally in colonies, and the social structure is strongly female-biased, females tolerate other related females but males are far less social and males don't cohabit peacefully as adults. If you keep more than one, related females are the workable combination; mixing unrelated adults or intact males invites fighting. Many keepers keep them singly with lots of human interaction. Do your research on the specific animals before pairing, and be ready to separate.

What temperature do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

For most of the year keep them at comfortable room temperature, avoiding extreme heat. The critical point is hibernation: this species naturally cools its body from the usual ~37°C down toward soil temperature, dropping to near 0°C in the depth of winter, with brief spontaneous rewarming episodes every couple of weeks. Experienced keepers provide a cool, safe, dark setting for this dormant period rather than forcing the animal to stay warm and awake. Because getting the hibernation environment right is difficult and risky, this is a subject to work through with an exotic vet before your first winter, never improvise it.

What bedding and substrate do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

Provide a deep, dig-friendly substrate so they can burrow, tunnelling is a core natural behaviour, not an optional enrichment. Use safe, dust-free bedding materials appropriate for rodents and avoid anything toxic, scented, or prone to causing respiratory irritation. Depth matters more than surface area for satisfying the urge to dig.

What enrichment and exercise do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

Digging opportunities, safe chew items, and things to forage for are the backbone of enrichment, chewing and burrowing are needs, not extras. Scatter-feeding and hiding food encourages natural foraging and helps manage weight. Supervised, squirrel-proofed out-of-cage exploration adds valuable stimulation for a bonded animal. A bored, under-enriched ground squirrel will chew and dig at everything, so give it legitimate outlets.

What grooming and upkeep do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

They groom themselves and don't need bathing. The keeper's real job is monitoring: watch body weight closely (obesity is a common captive problem), keep an eye on the continuously-growing incisors and provide plenty to gnaw so teeth wear naturally, and check for overgrown nails. Any change in weight, appetite, or teeth is worth an exotic-vet conversation.

What supplements do Richardson's Ground Squirrels need?

There's no well-established, widely-cited supplement protocol for this species in the pet literature, so the safest approach is a varied, species-appropriate diet that supplies nutrients naturally rather than guessing at supplements. If you suspect a deficiency, obesity issue, or breeding/pregnancy needs, ask an exotic vet rather than dosing on your own. Never assume a supplement is needed, get it confirmed.

How big do Richardson's Ground Squirrels get?

Adults are roughly 28 to 31 cm (about 11 to 12 inches) long including the tail. Weight swings dramatically with the season: at spring emergence females are around 200 to 275 g and males 350 to 450 g, but through summer they deliberately fatten up and can reach nearly 750 g before hibernation. That seasonal weight gain is normal and expected, though in captivity it tips easily into unhealthy obesity if food is unlimited.

How long do Richardson's Ground Squirrels live?

In the wild most don't last long, males average around 3 years and females around 4 (a few females past 6). In captivity, spared from predators, sources report noticeably longer lives, commonly cited around 6 years and sometimes 5 to 7. Plan for a genuine multi-year commitment through repeated hibernation cycles.

What are the signs Richardson's Ground Squirrels are sick or need a vet?

See a small-animal or exotics vet if you notice: Failure to fatten in late summer, or unexplained weight loss, before the hibernation season.; Not entering hibernation when expected, or a hibernation pattern that looks wrong, get vet guidance rather than guessing.; Trouble arousing normally, prolonged lethargy, or weakness outside the normal dormant period.; Overgrown or misaligned incisors, drooling, or difficulty eating (dental disease).; Obesity or a sudden change in appetite or thirst.; Diarrhoea, blood in stool or urine, or signs of dehydration.; Wounds, abscesses, or signs of respiratory illness (laboured breathing, discharge), especially in newly acquired or wild-caught animals..

Free tools for your richardson's ground squirrel


Sources & further reading

This guide was written and fact-checked against these authorities. It's kind, general guidance — not a diagnosis or a substitute for an exotics vet:

Written and fact-checked by The Hayfold Team against veterinarian-authored sources — if your pet shows a red-flag sign above, see an exotics/small-animal vet promptly.