Question 1

How hard are Short-Tailed Opossums to keep — are they good for beginners?

Accepted Answer

Advanced. A solitary, nocturnal, pouchless marsupial — not a cuddly or daytime pet. It must live completely alone (cage-mates fight and wound each other), needs an insect/protein diet with careful calcium balance, steady warmth, and an exotic vet. Best for an experienced keeper who wants to observe rather than handle.

Question 2

What do Short-Tailed Opossums eat?

Accepted Answer

An insect/animal-protein-based diet is the foundation — in the wild they eat insects, small animals and some fruit. In captivity they’re maintained on insect- and meat-based diets (research colonies use a complete pelleted insectivore/“fox” food, with vitamin supplementation), plus a little appropriate fruit. Feed the diet type, not a random mix, and always provide fresh water.

Question 3

How big an enclosure do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

A secure, escape-proof enclosure — a glass tank with a locking, fine-mesh lid suits them. Their tail is semi-prehensile and they use low vegetation, so give climbing branches and a hide/nest box. (Published husbandry keeps single adults in rat- or guinea-pig-sized caging; breeding needs more floor space.) Keep it genuinely escape-proof.

Question 4

Do Short-Tailed Opossums need a companion, or can they live alone?

Accepted Answer

Strictly SOLITARY — must live alone except for supervised, deliberate breeding. Housed together they’re aggressive and wound one another (even during the breeding “dance”), and adults are aggressive toward offspring. This is a hard rule, not a preference.

Question 5

What temperature do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

Warmth-dependent — keep the room about 23.5–26.5°C (roughly 74–80°F). (Their normal body temperature is lower than a placental mammal’s, around 32–33°C.) Keep them stably warm.

Question 6

What bedding and substrate do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

A safe, absorbent bedding (aspen is used in published husbandry) with nesting material — they build nests for warmth. Provide a hide or nest box.

Question 7

What enrichment and exercise do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

A nest box and nesting material are essential (nest-building is natural). Climbing branches suit their semi-prehensile tail and low-vegetation habits. They’re nocturnal, so expect night-time activity; give them things to explore.

Question 8

What grooming and upkeep do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

A self-grooming marsupial that needs little coat care. Unlike rodents, their teeth don’t grow continuously, so there’s no gnaw-to-wear-down requirement — but keep an exotic vet for any dental or health concern. Spot-clean the enclosure and refresh nesting.

Question 9

What supplements do Short-Tailed Opossums need?

Accepted Answer

Calcium balance matters: an insect/meat diet that’s poorly balanced (too much phosphorus, or fruit-heavy) risks metabolic bone disease, as in other insectivorous exotics — gut-load or dust feeder insects and follow an exotic vet’s guidance on calcium and vitamins (research diets include vitamin supplementation). Don’t over-supplement calcium either; let a vet set the plan.

Question 10

How big do Short-Tailed Opossums get?

Accepted Answer

Body about 10–15 cm, with a tail roughly half the body length; males weigh about 90–155 g and females about 80–100 g (males larger).

Question 11

How long do Short-Tailed Opossums live?

Accepted Answer

Realistically about 4–6 years in captivity (a maximum of just over 5 years is well documented).

Question 12

What are the signs Short-Tailed Opossums are sick or need a vet?

Accepted Answer

See a small-animal or exotics vet if you notice: Weakness, tremors, bendy limbs or fractures — possible metabolic bone disease from an unbalanced diet; see an exotic vet; Not eating, weight loss or lethargy; Any skin lesion or growth (they’re prone to UV-related skin tumours) — avoid strong UV and get changes checked; Wounds (usually from wrongly housing two together); Diarrhoea or signs of parasites.

Short-Tailed Opossum — care sheet

Before you buy

See a small-animal or exotics vet if…

Never

Common short-tailed opossum questions

Adult size	Body about 10–15 cm, with a tail roughly half the body length; males weigh about 90–155 g and females about 80–100 g (males larger).
Lifespan	Realistically about 4–6 years in captivity (a maximum of just over 5 years is well documented).
Enclosure	A secure, escape-proof enclosure — a glass tank with a locking, fine-mesh lid suits them. Their tail is semi-prehensile and they use low vegetation, so give climbing branches and a hide/nest box. (Published husbandry keeps single adults in rat- or guinea-pig-sized caging; breeding needs more floor space.) Keep it genuinely escape-proof.
Companionship	Strictly SOLITARY — must live alone except for supervised, deliberate breeding. Housed together they’re aggressive and wound one another (even during the breeding “dance”), and adults are aggressive toward offspring. This is a hard rule, not a preference.
Temperature	Warmth-dependent — keep the room about 23.5–26.5°C (roughly 74–80°F). (Their normal body temperature is lower than a placental mammal’s, around 32–33°C.) Keep them stably warm.
Bedding & substrate	A safe, absorbent bedding (aspen is used in published husbandry) with nesting material — they build nests for warmth. Provide a hide or nest box.
Enrichment & exercise	A nest box and nesting material are essential (nest-building is natural). Climbing branches suit their semi-prehensile tail and low-vegetation habits. They’re nocturnal, so expect night-time activity; give them things to explore.
Grooming & upkeep	A self-grooming marsupial that needs little coat care. Unlike rodents, their teeth don’t grow continuously, so there’s no gnaw-to-wear-down requirement — but keep an exotic vet for any dental or health concern. Spot-clean the enclosure and refresh nesting.
Diet	An insect/animal-protein-based diet is the foundation — in the wild they eat insects, small animals and some fruit. In captivity they’re maintained on insect- and meat-based diets (research colonies use a complete pelleted insectivore/“fox” food, with vitamin supplementation), plus a little appropriate fruit. Feed the diet type, not a random mix, and always provide fresh water.
Supplements	Calcium balance matters: an insect/meat diet that’s poorly balanced (too much phosphorus, or fruit-heavy) risks metabolic bone disease, as in other insectivorous exotics — gut-load or dust feeder insects and follow an exotic vet’s guidance on calcium and vitamins (research diets include vitamin supplementation). Don’t over-supplement calcium either; let a vet set the plan.