🗓️ Free tool · print it & keep a private log
Care scheduler & husbandry log
Pick your small pet for its feeding schedule and adaily / weekly / monthly routine you can print and stick by the cage — then use the private husbandry log to record each pet’s weight and notes over time. The weight trend is the earliest warning a prey animal gives you. Nothing is saved anywhere but your own device.
Hayfolda warm home for small-pet folk · hayfold.comCare schedule
African Pygmy Dormouse — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insect-forward omnivore. In the wild they eat insects, buds, fruit, seeds and nuts (and occasionally eggs or small prey). In captivity they show a marked preference for insects (mealworms, crickets, waxworms) and benefit from a higher-protein diet, alongside fruit, seeds and a little other animal protein. Always provide fresh water.
- Standard insectivore best-practice (gut-loading feeder insects, and calcium/vitamin balance) is sensible, but no authority specifies a calcium-dosing regime for this species — follow an exotic vet’s guidance rather than a fixed dose.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full african pygmy dormouse care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Campbell’s Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- The strictest low-sugar diet of any pet hamster: a good-quality low-sugar pellet or mix, and NO sugary fruit or treats — Campbell’s and their hybrids carry a real, genetically influenced predisposition to obesity and diabetes. Constant fresh water; avoid selective “muesli” mixes.
- None needed — the priority is keeping sugar OUT of the diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full campbell’s hamster care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Chinchilla — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Good-quality hay makes up the majority of the diet and must be available at all times — it keeps the gut moving and wears down their continuously-growing teeth. Add a small daily amount (about 1–2 tablespoons per chinchilla) of grass-based chinchilla pellets. Treats should be only tiny amounts of dried herbs or plantain and, sparingly, a little dried fruit or root vegetable — their gut is delicate and sensitive to sugar, so keep sweet foods to an absolute minimum. Provide constant fresh water.
- None needed on a correct hay-based diet. The bigger risk is the opposite of a deficiency — avoid sugary treats and supplements, which upset a chinchilla’s sensitive gut.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌿 Hay, water & cleaning
Every day
- Top up unlimited hay — it should never run out (it’s the bulk of the diet and wears the teeth down).
- Fresh water, plus the daily fresh greens/veg this species needs; remove yesterday’s uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean the toilet area and check everyone is eating and passing plenty of normal droppings.
Weekly
- Clean the litter/toilet area and refresh soiled bedding; wash food and water bowls.
- Weigh each animal and note the trend — steady weight loss is the earliest sign of dental or gut trouble.
- Offer a dust bath (chinchillas/degus) a few times a week; check teeth and nails aren’t overgrowing.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the whole enclosure and its décor.
- Check nails, teeth and (long-haired coats) for matting; book a vet check if anything is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A grazer that stops eating or passing droppings is an emergency — gut stasis moves fast. Keep hay unlimited, and keep sugar and fruit treats minimal (degus and chinchillas should have none).
Chinese Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A good-quality hamster pellet or seed/grain mix with constant fresh water. As a small dwarf-type it’s sensible to keep sugar low — avoid sugary muesli-style mixes and limit fruit.
- None needed on a good, varied hamster diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full chinese hamster care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Chipmunk — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A full, varied diet: cereals (oats, wheat, barley, corn, millet) making up around half; unsalted seeds and nuts (e.g. pine nuts); small amounts of washed, chopped fresh fruit and vegetables (apple, pear, banana, carrot, sweet potato); and untreated seeding grasses/weeds (chickweed, shepherd’s purse). Remove stones from peaches/plums (poisonous). A seed-based rodent mix isn’t suitable, though rat/mouse pellets can be given. Chipmunks hoard food (essential to their wellbeing) — check the store daily and remove perishables, and never change the diet suddenly. Fresh water from a stainless-steel-spout bottle, checked twice daily.
- A clean cuttlefish bone for calcium and to wear the teeth down. No other routine supplement is recommended; only ever give vet-prescribed medicines (human or other-animal medicines can be dangerous).
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Degu — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- The critical rule is no sugar. Degus are highly prone to type 2 diabetes and can’t handle sugar or rich carbohydrates. Give unlimited good-quality hay as the majority of the diet — it matters more than anything else and wears down their ever-growing teeth — plus about 1–2 tablespoons (≈10 g) of degu nuggets a day. If you can’t get degu-specific nuggets, guinea-pig or chinchilla nuggets are acceptable only if they contain no molasses (and no dried fruit); rabbit, hamster and gerbil foods are not suitable. Skip fruit entirely (too sugary), and give only tiny occasional pieces of higher-sugar vegetables like carrot, sweet potato, beetroot or parsnip. Provide fresh water at all times.
- None needed — and the priority is the opposite of supplementing: keeping sugar out. Avoid sugary commercial treats, which are a common hidden cause of diabetes in degus.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌿 Hay, water & cleaning
Every day
- Top up unlimited hay — it should never run out (it’s the bulk of the diet and wears the teeth down).
- Fresh water, plus the daily fresh greens/veg this species needs; remove yesterday’s uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean the toilet area and check everyone is eating and passing plenty of normal droppings.
Weekly
- Clean the litter/toilet area and refresh soiled bedding; wash food and water bowls.
- Weigh each animal and note the trend — steady weight loss is the earliest sign of dental or gut trouble.
- Offer a dust bath (chinchillas/degus) a few times a week; check teeth and nails aren’t overgrowing.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the whole enclosure and its décor.
- Check nails, teeth and (long-haired coats) for matting; book a vet check if anything is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A grazer that stops eating or passing droppings is an emergency — gut stasis moves fast. Keep hay unlimited, and keep sugar and fruit treats minimal (degus and chinchillas should have none).
Fat-Tailed Gerbil — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Unlike seed-eating gerbils, the duprasi is strongly insectivore-leaning — live or dried insects (mealworms, crickets) should be a regular, important part of the diet, aiming for a higher protein intake (around 18%). Offer these alongside a good-quality gerbil or hamster seed mix and small amounts of vegetables. Keep watery vegetables limited (a desert species — too much moisture causes diarrhoea). Fresh water always available.
- None specifically documented — the protein need is met by insects, not a supplement. Don’t improvise a supplement regime; a duprasi-savvy vet can advise if one is needed.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full fat-tailed gerbil care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Ferret — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Ferrets are obligate carnivores: they need a diet high in animal protein, moderate in fat and very low in carbohydrate, meat-based, from a good commercial ferret food (dry kibble), available along with fresh water at all times (they have a fast metabolism and short gut and must eat often). Keep treats to no more than about 5% of intake — meat, egg or freeze-dried meat treats are ideal. Never feed dairy or carbohydrate-rich foods, and never sugary foods like fruit, raisins or honey: sugar spikes insulin and can worsen insulinoma. Change foods only gradually.
- Not usually necessary on a complete ferret food — vitamins are only needed in special cases or for some older ferrets, on a vet’s advice. Don’t supplement routinely.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧻 Litter, play & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water and food (ferrets eat little and often); scoop the litter tray — they’re fastidious about it.
- Give 2–4 hours of supervised, ferret-proofed play out of the cage, and check the enclosure is still escape-proof.
Weekly
- Wash bedding and hammocks (they get musky) and wipe down the cage.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check for hair loss or any lumps.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the cage and litter areas; clean the ears if they need it.
- Keep vaccinations and routine vet checks up to date.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
From middle age, ferrets are prone to insulinoma (low blood sugar — weakness, drooling, a glazed stare) and adrenal disease (hair loss). Weakness or collapse needs a vet fast.
Flying Squirrel — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A true omnivore — among the most carnivorous of squirrels. The diet should include protein (insects such as mealworms and crickets), plus nuts, fruit and vegetables. The critical risk is calcium balance: a nut/seed/corn-heavy diet is high in phosphorus and low in calcium, which drives metabolic bone disease. A calcium-adequate, balanced diet (correct calcium-to-phosphorus ratio) is essential. Fresh water always available.
- They’re prone to calcium deficiency and typically need a calcium supplement, with vitamin D3 (via diet or appropriate light) to use it — but D3 dosing must be vet-supervised, since over-supplementation is harmful. Have an exotic vet set the calcium/D3 plan.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full flying squirrel care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Gerbil — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A good-quality food made specifically for gerbils — a compound pellet or a proper seed mix — as the base. You can supplement with small amounts of fruit (pear, melon, apple, orange) and vegetables (cucumber, carrot, pumpkin, fennel) as part of the ration. Avoid feeding too many fatty seeds like sunflower (they cause obesity), and never give grapes or rhubarb, which are poisonous to rodents. Provide fresh water at all times.
- None needed on a good-quality gerbil diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Guinea Pig — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Good-quality hay and/or grass makes up the majority of the diet and must be available at all times — it keeps the gut moving and wears down their continuously-growing teeth. Add a fresh daily portion of grass-based guinea-pig pellets and a daily variety of vitamin-C-rich fresh vegetables and herbs. Vitamin C is the make-or-break nutrient: guinea pigs can’t make or store their own, so it must come from the diet every day — and because vitamin C degrades in air, give a fresh portion of pellets and greens each day rather than topping up the bowl. Provide constant fresh water (check twice daily). Don’t overfeed pellets: too many (and too little hay) cause diarrhoea, bloating and gut disease.
- The critical one is vitamin C, and it should come from the daily diet (fresh grass-based pellets plus vitamin-C-rich vegetables). Don’t rely on vitamin drops in the water bottle — vitamin C breaks down quickly in water and can put pigs off drinking. If you’re unsure your pig is getting enough, ask a vet about a proper supplement rather than guessing.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌿 Hay, water & cleaning
Every day
- Top up unlimited hay — it should never run out (it’s the bulk of the diet and wears the teeth down).
- Fresh water, plus the daily fresh greens/veg this species needs; remove yesterday’s uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean the toilet area and check everyone is eating and passing plenty of normal droppings.
Weekly
- Clean the litter/toilet area and refresh soiled bedding; wash food and water bowls.
- Weigh each animal and note the trend — steady weight loss is the earliest sign of dental or gut trouble.
- Offer a dust bath (chinchillas/degus) a few times a week; check teeth and nails aren’t overgrowing.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the whole enclosure and its décor.
- Check nails, teeth and (long-haired coats) for matting; book a vet check if anything is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A grazer that stops eating or passing droppings is an emergency — gut stasis moves fast. Keep hay unlimited, and keep sugar and fruit treats minimal (degus and chinchillas should have none).
Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A good-quality, varied hamster diet — a complete compound pellet or a proper hamster seed/grain mix — reflecting their natural mix of seeds, cereals and some insect protein. Hamsters cheek-pouch and hoard food, sitting up to gnaw it, so expect a food stash in the nest. Provide constant fresh water, ideally from a small-diameter or valveless sipper bottle (hamsters can’t suck hard against a stiff ball-valve), checked daily. Avoid sudden diet changes and stale food, which upset their gut.
- None needed on a good-quality, varied hamster diet. Avoid loading them with sugary or fatty treats — dwarf hamsters in particular are prone to weight and blood-sugar problems.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Hedgehog — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Feed a commercial hedgehog or insectivore food as the base; if you can’t get one, a high-quality weight-management cat or dog food is an acceptable alternative — ration it (roughly 3–4 tsp a day) because hedgehogs get obese easily. Add a little varied moist/protein food and insects daily (mealworms, gut-loaded crickets, cooked meat or egg, low-fat cottage cheese, a little canned cat/dog food) plus a small amount of vegetables/fruit. Hide insects in the bedding to encourage foraging. Never feed raw meat or raw egg (salmonella risk) or milk (it causes diarrhoea). Fresh water at all times; introduce any new food slowly, as they’re fussy about change.
- Not necessary for a hedgehog on a balanced commercial diet — don’t add vitamin or mineral supplements unless a vet advises it.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌡️ Warmth, food & cleaning
Every day
- Check the enclosure is in its safe warm range — a cold hedgehog can slip into a dangerous torpor.
- Fresh water and food; remove uneaten wet/live food; spot-clean the toilet corner and the wheel.
Weekly
- Clean the wheel thoroughly (they run and toilet on it) and wipe down surfaces.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check feet, nails and skin.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and deep-clean.
- Check nails for overgrowth; a shallow foot bath helps with mucky “poo boots”.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Warmth is make-or-break: too cold triggers a dangerous attempted hibernation. Wobbling or unsteadiness (possible Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome), or a cold, tightly-curled, unresponsive hedgehog, needs a vet.
Mouse — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Mice are opportunistic omnivores. Feed a good-quality, balanced mouse food (a proper mix or pellet) as the base, plus small amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables as part of — not on top of — the daily ration, scattered to encourage foraging. Provide constant fresh water. Don’t feed grapes, raisins or rhubarb (poisonous to mice) or lettuce (it causes diarrhoea).
- None needed on a good-quality, balanced mouse diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Prairie Dog — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Grass hay (timothy, orchard or brome) available at all times is the foundation — they’re hindgut fermenters needing high fibre, like rabbits. Give only a small amount of timothy-based pellets (roughly one to two blocks a week, mainly for young animals), plus dark leafy greens (kale, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, dandelion, carrot tops) as treats — treats no more than about 5% of intake. Cut rich alfalfa hay after one year of age. Never feed iceberg lettuce, dog/cat food, nuts, raisins, animal protein or table scraps. Fresh water always available. Diet-related conditions are the single most common health problem in captive prairie dogs.
- None needed — no supplements have been developed for prairie dogs, and a correct grass-hay-based diet doesn’t require them.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌿 Hay, water & cleaning
Every day
- Top up unlimited hay — it should never run out (it’s the bulk of the diet and wears the teeth down).
- Fresh water, plus the daily fresh greens/veg this species needs; remove yesterday’s uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean the toilet area and check everyone is eating and passing plenty of normal droppings.
Weekly
- Clean the litter/toilet area and refresh soiled bedding; wash food and water bowls.
- Weigh each animal and note the trend — steady weight loss is the earliest sign of dental or gut trouble.
- Offer a dust bath (chinchillas/degus) a few times a week; check teeth and nails aren’t overgrowing.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the whole enclosure and its décor.
- Check nails, teeth and (long-haired coats) for matting; book a vet check if anything is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A grazer that stops eating or passing droppings is an emergency — gut stasis moves fast. Keep hay unlimited, and keep sugar and fruit treats minimal (degus and chinchillas should have none).
Rabbit — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- About 85% good-quality hay and/or fresh grass — a bundle at least as big as the rabbit, available at all times, as it keeps both the gut moving and the continuously-growing teeth worn down. Add around 10% washed leafy greens and herbs daily (a large handful, ideally 5–6 different types such as kale, parsley, mint, dandelion), and only about 5% pellets — a small, measured daily amount, never topped up. Fruit and root veg (carrot, apple) are occasional treats only. Always provide fresh water. Never feed muesli-style mixes (they cause dental and gut disease), and never feed lawnmower clippings. Change any diet gradually over weeks — sudden changes cause dangerous gut upset.
- None needed on a correct hay-based diet: hay does the real work of wearing teeth down and keeping the gut moving, and rabbits make their own B-vitamins by re-eating their soft caecotroph droppings. Do not add vitamin/mineral supplements unless a vet advises it.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌿 Hay, water & cleaning
Every day
- Top up unlimited hay — it should never run out (it’s the bulk of the diet and wears the teeth down).
- Fresh water, plus the daily fresh greens/veg this species needs; remove yesterday’s uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean the toilet area and check everyone is eating and passing plenty of normal droppings.
Weekly
- Clean the litter/toilet area and refresh soiled bedding; wash food and water bowls.
- Weigh each animal and note the trend — steady weight loss is the earliest sign of dental or gut trouble.
- Offer a dust bath (chinchillas/degus) a few times a week; check teeth and nails aren’t overgrowing.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the whole enclosure and its décor.
- Check nails, teeth and (long-haired coats) for matting; book a vet check if anything is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A grazer that stops eating or passing droppings is an emergency — gut stasis moves fast. Keep hay unlimited, and keep sugar and fruit treats minimal (degus and chinchillas should have none).
Rat — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A complete commercial rat food (nuggets/pellets designed specifically for rats — not rabbit, guinea pig or hamster food) as the base. As omnivores they enjoy small amounts of fresh food — vegetables, a little fruit, cooked egg, grains and seeds — but give these as part of the daily ration, not on top of it, or they gain weight. Feed twice a day (they’re dawn/dusk feeders), from open ceramic bowls rather than metal (metal creates stressful ultrasound), and provide fresh water from several drip bottles. Avoid onion, citrus, walnuts, rhubarb, grapes/raisins and chocolate, and keep sugary, fatty and dairy foods to occasional treats only.
- None needed on a complete rat food — and don’t over-supplement, as high-calorie diets are linked to tumours. Eating some of their own droppings (coprophagy) is normal and healthy: it’s how rats absorb certain nutrients, so never try to stop it.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Roborovski Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A good-quality hamster pellet or seed/grain mix, with constant fresh water. Robos are not among the diabetes-prone lines, but avoid sugary muesli-style mixes and excess fruit as a sensible dwarf precaution.
- None needed on a good, varied hamster diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full roborovski hamster care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Short-Tailed Opossum — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An insect/animal-protein-based diet is the foundation — in the wild they eat insects, small animals and some fruit. In captivity they’re maintained on insect- and meat-based diets (research colonies use a complete pelleted insectivore/“fox” food, with vitamin supplementation), plus a little appropriate fruit. Feed the diet type, not a random mix, and always provide fresh water.
- Calcium balance matters: an insect/meat diet that’s poorly balanced (too much phosphorus, or fruit-heavy) risks metabolic bone disease, as in other insectivorous exotics — gut-load or dust feeder insects and follow an exotic vet’s guidance on calcium and vitamins (research diets include vitamin supplementation). Don’t over-supplement calcium either; let a vet set the plan.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🌡️ Warmth, food & cleaning
Every day
- Keep it warm and offer the insect/protein diet fresh each evening; remove uneaten food.
- Fresh water; spot-clean, and check it’s active at night and housed strictly alone (they fight).
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and clean the nest box; refresh the climbing enrichment.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check its body condition.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and deep-clean.
- Review the calcium balance of the diet.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A solitary, nocturnal insectivore — never house two together. Poor calcium balance causes metabolic bone disease, and steady warmth matters; a lethargic or wobbly opossum needs an exotic vet.
Full short-tailed opossum care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Spiny Mouse — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivorous — in the wild they eat seeds, fruit, dried plant matter and small invertebrates (insects, spiders, snails). A workable base is a lower-protein rodent pellet mixed with a smaller amount of black-oil sunflower seeds, plus occasional fresh vegetables and a little animal protein or insects. Keep fat and sugar modest: spiny mice are prone to obesity and diabetes, and high-fat or high-sugar diets harm them. Fresh water always available.
- None specifically required on a balanced diet; occasional fresh vegetables are a reasonable addition. Avoid over-rich, fatty or sugary foods (diabetes risk) rather than adding supplements.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Sugar Glider — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- This is the hardest part of glider care, and where most go wrong. About half the diet should be an artificial nectar (a formulated “Leadbeater’s”/BML-type mixture); the rest should be a mix of a commercial glider pellet, gut-loaded or calcium-dusted live insects (crickets, mealworms) for protein, with only a small amount of fruit and vegetables (together under about 10% of the diet). Feed twice a day with fresh water always available. Because their natural sap-and-insect diet is so hard to replicate, a vet experienced with sugar gliders should set the exact plan and supplement schedule.
- Calcium with vitamin D3 is essential — a poor, fruit-heavy diet without balanced calcium causes metabolic bone disease. Gut-load or dust feeder insects with calcium, and follow a glider vet’s supplement schedule.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🍑 Diet, colony & cleaning
Every day
- Serve the correct prepared diet (e.g. a BML-type plan) fresh each evening, and remove it in the morning.
- Fresh water; spot-clean the cage floor and check every glider in the colony is present and well.
Weekly
- Wash the sleeping pouches and wipe down the cage and branches.
- Weigh each glider and note the trend; check the gliding membranes and eyes.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the tall cage and replace worn pouches and toys.
- Review the diet’s calcium-to-phosphorus balance — diet slips are what cause disease.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Diet is everything: an improvised diet causes metabolic bone disease (a weak, shaky glider, or fractures). And a lone glider is a suffering glider — never keep just one.
Syrian Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A good-quality complete pellet or a proper hamster seed/grain mix, reflecting their natural seeds, cereals and a little insect protein. Constant fresh water from an easy-to-drink sipper. Syrians are not among the diabetes-prone hamsters, but still keep sugary and fatty treats to a minimum.
- None needed on a good, varied hamster diet.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full syrian hamster care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
Winter White Hamster — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A strict, low-sugar diet is the headline: a good-quality low-sugar hamster pellet or mix, and NO sugary fruit or treats — Russian dwarves are genuinely prone to obesity and diabetes. Constant fresh water. Avoid selective “muesli” mixes (they let a hamster pick out the sweet bits).
- None needed — the priority is keeping sugar OUT of the diet, not adding anything.
- Growing youngsters eat more than adults and need constant access to the right food — don’t restrict a growing animal, and get the calcium and protein right while the skeleton is forming.
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — obesity is one of the most common, and most preventable, small-pet health problems.
🧹 Food, water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water (check the bottle actually flows) and the daily food ration; remove uneaten fresh food.
- Spot-clean soiled corners and check each animal is active, eating and breathing quietly.
Weekly
- Spot-clean bedding and nesting and wipe surfaces — keeping ammonia down directly protects their lungs.
- Weigh each animal, note the trend, and gently feel for any new lumps.
- Refresh the sand bath if you offer one, and check the gnaw items so the ever-growing teeth stay worn down.
Monthly
- Full bedding change and enclosure clean — but leave a little used nesting for familiar scent (over-cleaning stresses them).
- Check teeth and nails; see an exotic vet if a tooth is overgrowing.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
These are prey animals that hide illness — a hunched, quiet animal, clicking or laboured breathing, or a new lump means see an exotic vet. In hamsters, a wet, dirty rear end (wet tail) is an emergency.
Full winter white hamster care →Red-flag signs →Cage big enough? →
A sensible starting routine, not a rigid rule — adjust to your individual animal and its body condition. Feeding is taken from each species’ fact-checked care sheet; the cleaning rhythm is standard husbandry. Your pick is remembered on this device only — no account, nothing sent anywhere.
📓 Husbandry log
Keep a private record of each pet — weight and notes over time. It lives only in this browser, on this device. The weight chart is the point: a slow, steady drop is often the first sign of illness.
🔒 Yours, and private — saved on your device and never uploaded. It's your record to keep an eye on and to bring to your vet. How we handle your data →
Your pets
Log
“Add reminders to my calendar” downloads a calendar file with a weekly weigh-inand a monthly deep-clean for this pet — open it in Google/Apple/Outlook Calendar and it’ll remind you (and link you back here) on its own.
The log is honest record-keeping, not a diagnosis. If a weight is dropping, or a note worries you, see an exotic/small-animal vet — and bring this log with you. Data is stored only on this device.
Quick answers
What daily, weekly and monthly care does a small pet need?
Daily: fresh water and food, spot-cleaning, and a quick check that everyone is eating, active and breathing quietly (grazers also need unlimited hay topped up). Weekly: a proper clean of the toilet area, a wipe-down, and a weigh-in to track the trend. Monthly: a deeper clean and a check of teeth and nails. The exact rhythm shifts by species — this tool lays out your animal’s version so you can print it and stick it by the cage.
How often should I weigh my small pet?
Weekly is ideal for most small pets, and it’s the single most useful health habit you can build. Prey animals hide illness until it is advanced, so a slow, steady drop in weight is very often the first sign of dental disease, gut trouble or a tumour — long before the animal looks unwell. Log each weight in the husbandry log below and you’ll see the trend at a glance.
What is a husbandry log and why keep one?
A husbandry log is a simple dated record of your pet — its weight, plus notes on appetite, droppings, behaviour, cleaning and vet visits. It turns vague worry (“is it a bit quiet lately?”) into evidence you and your vet can act on, and the weight trend catches problems early. The log on this page saves privately in your own browser — no account, and nothing is sent anywhere.
Is my data private?
Yes — it’s yours. Both your schedule choice and everything in the husbandry log are stored only in this browser, on this device, using local storage, so it stays in your hands. Nothing is uploaded and no account is needed. Clearing your browser data (or using the delete buttons) removes it, and you can keep your own copy with “Download my log”.
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